Leather Handicrafts of India: Traditional Crafts and How They Are Made

India's best-known leather handicrafts include Kolhapuri chappals, Rajasthani mojaris, Santiniketan leather goods, Andhra Pradesh leather puppets (Tholu Bommalata), Chamba chappals, Indore leather toys and Kanpur saddlery. Several carry a Geographical Indication (GI) tag. Most rely on hand cutting, hand stitching and natural finishing, the same skills behind the handmade leather wallets made in small Indian workshops today.

Key takeaways

• India's official handicrafts listing groups leather craft into two parts: footwear and other leather articles.
• At least eight leather crafts and leathers are GI-registered, from Kolhapuri chappals to Santiniketan leather goods.
• Each region has a signature: braided Kolhapuri straps, embroidered Jaipur mojaris, touch-dyed Santiniketan leather and painted Andhra puppets.
• Traditional methods include vegetable or bark tanning, hand cutting, hand stitching and hand decoration.
• Modern handmade leather goods, such as wallets and journal covers, use the same core skills with simpler, everyday designs.
• To tell real handwork, look for hand stitching, finished edges, natural leather and a stated making time.

What are leather handicrafts?

Leather handicrafts are leather products made mainly by hand, usually by artisans working alone or in small family workshops. The maker cuts, shapes, stitches and decorates each piece, using hand tools such as knives, awls, needles and hammers.

The handicrafts website of the Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), under India's Ministry of Textiles, lists leather craft as one of the country's major craft groups. It splits it into two sub-categories: leather footwear, such as Kolhapuri chappals and mojaris, and other leather articles, such as puppets, bags and decorative pieces.

What separates a handicraft from a factory product is the role of the person. Machines may help with one step, but the shape, stitching and finish depend on the artisan's skill, so no two pieces are exactly alike. For buyers, that usually means more character, slower production and a product that can often be repaired rather than replaced.

Which leather handicrafts of India have a GI tag?

A Geographical Indication (GI) tag protects a product whose quality or reputation comes from a specific place. Leather-related entries in the Indian GI registry, as listed by Intellectual Property India (registrations as on 31 December 2025), include:

East India (E.I.) Leather is a tanned leather rather than a finished product, and it is the base material for other crafts, including Santiniketan leather goods.

What are the most famous traditional leather crafts?

Kolhapuri chappals (Maharashtra and Karnataka)

Kolhapuris are hand-made leather sandals known for braided straps and traditional patterns. According to the handicrafts website, the sole is made from buffalo leather and the upper from goatskin. The leather is tanned in salt, limestone and herbal solutions, and the full process can take up to six weeks.

Mojaris (Rajasthan)

Mojaris are light, slip-on leather shoes associated with Jaipur and Jodhpur. They were first made from camel leather; today goat and buffalo leather, as well as synthetics, are used. Making one involves three stages: the decorated strap, the sole, and assembly by stitching or gluing.

Santiniketan leather goods (West Bengal)

Santiniketan leather goods are leather products made in Santiniketan and nearby villages from vegetable-tanned sheepskin and goatskin, usually East India leather. Their artwork is created by touch dyeing, which gives each piece a distinctive, hand-coloured pattern.

Tholu Bommalata leather puppets (Andhra Pradesh)

Tholu Bommalata means "the dance of leather puppets" in Telugu. Artisans process goat hide into a thin, translucent parchment, cut fine details, and paint figures in ochre, green, red and other colours. The same craft now makes lampshades and wall hangings.

Camel-leather work of Bikaner (Rajasthan)

Bikaner is known for kupis, water bottles made from camel leather, and nakashi, the decoration of embossed leather with gold leaf or paint.

How are traditional leather handicrafts made?

Methods vary by region, but most follow the same five stages:

1. Tanning. Raw hide is cleaned and turned into stable leather. Traditional methods use plant materials; one documented method, described for Rajasthan's leather work, soaks hides in lime water and later in a solution made with babul (acacia) bark.
2. Cutting. The artisan marks the pattern and cuts the leather by hand with a knife.
3. Shaping. Pieces are moulded, folded or hammered into shape; footwear is shaped over wooden lasts.
4. Stitching or assembly. Seams are hand-stitched with strong thread, laced or, in some crafts, glued.
5. Decoration and finishing. Depending on the craft: braiding, embroidery, embossing, touch dyeing, painting or gold leaf, followed by polishing.

How do traditional crafts compare with modern handmade and factory-made leather?

Our types of leather guide explains the leather grades in the table, and what is full grain leather shows how to spot the best one.

How can you tell if a leather product is genuinely handmade?

Many products are sold as "handcrafted" without much handwork. Check:

• Stitching. Hand saddle stitching uses two needles through each hole, giving slightly slanted, even stitches.
• Edges. Hand-finished edges are sanded and burnished smooth rather than coated in thick plastic paint.
• Material. Real leather has an irregular grain and a natural smell; PU and other synthetics look uniform. See full grain leather vs genuine leather for grade labels.
• Variation. Small differences between pieces are normal for handwork.
• Making time. A stated made-to-order period means someone makes it after you order.

The handmade leather wallets buying guide covers these checks in detail for wallets.

Where do handmade leather wallets fit in this tradition?

Handmade leather wallets use the core skills of India's leather crafts, hand cutting, stitching and edge finishing, but with plainer designs made for daily use.

Parvaan Leathercraft is one small example. Its product pages describe hand-stitched pieces in vegetable-tanned leather, all made to order. A few examples, as listed on 18 October 2026:

Browse handmade leather wallets, stationery items and travel accessories, or read the cash wrap wallet guide.

How do you care for handmade leather?

Handmade leather lasts for years with basic care. Keep it dry, wipe it with a soft cloth, condition it occasionally with a neutral leather balm, and keep it out of long, direct sunlight. Our guide to leather wallet care in Indian weather covers summer heat and monsoon humidity.

Frequently asked questions

What are the leather handicrafts of India?

They include Kolhapuri chappals, Rajasthani mojaris, Santiniketan leather goods, Andhra Pradesh leather puppets, Chamba chappals, Indore leather toys, Kanpur saddlery and Bikaner's camel-leather work.

Which leather crafts in India have a GI tag?

Leather-related GI registrations include Kolhapuri Chappal, Santiniketan Leather Goods, Andhra Pradesh Leather Puppetry, Chamba Chappal, Leather Toys of Indore, Kanpur Saddlery, Agra Leather Footwear and East India Leather.

What is Santiniketan leather?

It is a West Bengal craft of leather goods made from vegetable-tanned sheepskin and goatskin, decorated by touch dyeing. It is GI-registered.

What is Tholu Bommalata?

It is the traditional leather puppetry of Andhra Pradesh. Puppets are made from goat hide processed into translucent parchment, then cut, painted and jointed.

How are Kolhapuri chappals made?

The sole is cut from buffalo leather and the upper from goatskin. The leather is tanned in salt, limestone and herbal solutions, then shaped, stitched, decorated and polished.

Are handmade leather products better than machine-made ones?

They are often longer lasting and repairable, especially when hand-stitched from full-grain or top-grain leather. They cost more and take longer to make.